Well, my car died on me twice on the road as I was driving it yesterday. I am pretty sure it is the clogged EGR port the dealer told me to have cleared last year, and which I didn't want to spend $400 on. Anyone have advice about how a newbie to engines should approach trying to clean the EGR port on a 1998 Accord V6? lol. Heck, that may not even be the cause at this point, since that diagnosis was from a year ago! Seems to make sense, though, that if it was clogged, it still would be today too.
I'm no mechanic or expert but I believe this might be a little beyond the grasp of someone that's a newbie when it comes to engines...maybe a little risky to undertake. You might end up with a much bigger problem. But...like I said, I'm no expert so if anyone else wants to weigh in, please do
purchase a code scanner it should cost between $50.00 to $75.00 with all the sensors these cars have now, its impossible to do repairs without one. P1491 EGR Valve Lift Insufficient Detected P1498 EGR Valve Lift Sensor High Voltage P0401 EGR Insufficient Flow Detected these are just a few codes. .
Nice, AZ. lol. Thanks everyone for the tips. I actually had a Dealer code from 8 months ago that I never had repaired, it was P0401 Insufficient EGR Flow. Looking into it, there are Honda TSB's about the intake manifold port leading to the EGR valve being poorly deigned and clogging up. Thing is, the dealer wants $400 to do the repair. Anyways, today I used throttle cleaner on the EGR valve itself, got a lot of gunk out. (but I could NOT get into the intake manifold, where the known issue is with gunk building up at the out=-port to the EGR valve. I assume that's still gummed up). Also used it on the throttle wires/etc (whatever they're called). Replaced distributor cap and rotor. Check sparkplugs. They look okay (I did them only 30,000 miles ago). Thing is, I am still idling rough and if I rev the engine and let the foot off, it almost stalls and the lights all go dim for a second before it recovers. No bloody clue what that's all about. ANyways, my choices now are: 1) Check alternator 2) Take it to dealer to have safety recall on ignition carried out, see if they'll look into problem and diagnose it free while doing the other stuff. 3) I want to put some carb-out cleaner (SeaFoam) through the air intake, but can;t get the damned thing off (old connectors, etc and I ain't a mechanic). I wanted to also cleane the inside of the throttle body and the valve inside it. Anyways... other ideas what might make my whole car wanna stall and the lights dim when I release the gas after revving at idle? I just want what's best for my car and am willing to spend the money if I am 99% sure it's the RIGHT repiar. Can;t afford to play a guessing game with dealer repairs.
I remember places like Autozone used to do free diagnostics but its been awhile since I've asked for it. Could always check there. Most of the guys I've dealt with at the store are very knowledgable.
I dont know about free Diagnostics, but I would indeed start with the Alternator and Voltage Regulator. They most certainly will check both for free. Wish I knew more about the newer Honda's Barry. I had an '83. Loved that car till things started going wrong. It turned into a HUGE money trap pretty damn quickly. I think they have come along ways since then, but I just honestly havent looked under the hood of one since....ohhhhhh 85? Good luck brother.
I'm not familiar with your specific vehicle,but a PO401 is more than likely a restriction in the EGR port(somewhere) You say you cleaned out a BUNCH of gunk from the egr port? You need to get a better visual to see if you got it all if you could.Also make sure the EGR is not sticking.Do you have a pipe that comes off the egr to the exhaust? Did you remove that pipe and clean that also? More often then not the problem will be found there.
All great advice. Thanks guys! I went to Autozone and tested the alt and battery. They're fine. Went to the dlr for the recalls and had them performed. No effect on problem. They re-pulled the P0401 EGR insufficient air intake code. They charge $400 for the repair, which is to clean the EGR port inside the intake manifold. Anyways, I took it to a guy a friend recommended who quoted my $275 to do the same job. We'll see if the Chk Eng light and indle/stall persist after this. I still have the SeaFoam option to try next too. re: your question 54fins.... the EGR is atop a piece of solid metal body.. no pipes. When I removed it to clean it out I cleaned out both holes into the metal mounting surface as well as I could with throttle cleaner and a toothbrush and rag. I don't know where the exhaust port leads, but would need a 'snake' of sorts to send down that hole if that's what's plugged. Pretty sure it's the EGR port in the manifold, since it is a well-known issue with this make/model. Very very common apparently.
OK The EGR is on top of the intake manifold.Usually the intake side of it is easier to clean because it straight into the intake itself.The other hole goes to your exhaust port.We are going to work on the exhaust side.Brake cleaner,compressed air,pick,rags,coat hanger is what you will start off with.(BC is stronger than CCleaner,btw)Take the egr off,start picking what you can torwards the exhaust port.Spray brake cleaner,let soak 5minutes,pick more out to loosen the carbon and shoot it with air(rag over top)keep doing this until it starts breaking apart.It is tedious but will save you $$$.This is the 1st thing you NEED to do so you know the restriction is not there.Also if the port is accessible,you can buy a small(long) flexible ball-style hone made for a drill.This would make it a whole lot easier. I'm pretty sure the problem will be there telling by your symptoms. Sea foam is a very good product,and I recommend it for many different jobs.It just won't fix this problem.Use it as a additive for preventive maintenance purposes. When this problem you have is corrected,look into buying a better spark plug that can(will) burn better.This will help prevent another episode in the future. My opinion is that with our country changing to a "greener" ethenol based fuel,vehicles are running a bit differently.One example would be more EGR failures,carbon buildup,etc.
I posted in the Luxury Box, but your posts here showed you did what I suggested and the advice in here is far better than the trollop I gave lol!
Thanks for the GREAT advice, bud!!!! I will follow your directions!!! I had the intake side port cleared by a mechanic for pretty cheap, and he soaked the EGR in solvent overnight. Car is better, but I'm giving it a couple days to see if the Check Eng light stays off. I also replaced the air filter, as it was alomst due anyways. Anything to help the intake system get more, cleaner air at this point. (and air filters are dirt cheap). Regarding the plugs... I did them about 30,000 miles ago and put in top of the line platinum plugs. Took them out and there is barely ANY discoloration on the tip of the 'arm'. They look close to new. A LITTLE bit of white in the tube around them, and some smudges of black under the threading where they screw in. I decided they looked okay. What type of plugs do you recommend? What should the box say on it? I want to make sure that if I spend the money to replace plugs that still look okay, that I am truly upgrading. I'll gladly spend the $$ if it reduces the chances of carbon build-up and improves emissions.
Thanks for all your help guys!!!!!!! Car seems to be running smoother at idle, and we'll see if Chk Eng light stays off. I believe it will. I'll go in for another code-read in a couple days after driving it awhile.
Looks like you might have the problem fixed. It's always harder trying to troubleshoot when the vehicle is not in front of me. About the plugs.If they are platinum,and you just changed them 30,000 miles ago.I would say they are fine.I like NGK for japenese vehicles myself.Very good plug IMO.Just make sure they are the proper heat range for your Honda.You can ask someone at your local parts store for the proper plug.I don't know that info off hand. If they were not platinum.I would change my plugs every 30K because that's what I do on my personal vehicles.
I usually got NGK, but I think these were Bosch platinum ones. Btw, the Chk Eng light came on again today, so I guess I'll prolly have to replace my EGR after all. Thing is, last week, to keep the car from stalling I goosed up the idle throttle screw and when I had my codes read LAST WEEK at Honda I got the old EGR code (which I already knew but hadn;t fixed yet) AND an IAC valve code... which I thought "That must be because I adjusted the idle throttle screw... when I turn it back down it'll be okay." So, now that my EGR port was cleared, the valve cleaned, and the Chk Eng light came back on I have two possible answers: 1) the EGR FOES need replacement and it's causing the Chk Engine 2) The EGR valve cleaning worked, but the IAW valve IS screwed and ITS causing the Chk Engine. Well, before I spend the money to replace that EGR I want to go verify that I am still getting an insufficient airflow to EGR code. So I am gonna go to AAMCO for a free code-read tomorrow. Hopefully it comes up ONLY EGR. Then I replace the EGR and I am done. If NO EGR code comes up, but the IAC valve code comes up again, it means I may be into repairing ANOTHER part to get rid of this Chk Eng. After I fix this car I am selling it and getting a 2002 Civic!!!! lol.
If I recall correctly, if your Honda's gas cap isn't on tight enough you can get that check engine light, too. Also replace your fuel filter. On a 98 Honda you should be able to find it on the fire wall. It's black and kind of can shaped.
